KILIFI NEW YEARS 2019

This was a pop-up carnival right in the midst of Kilifi's primeval baobab forest. An ethnic-inspired EDM fantascape featuring holistic wellness programs, workshops, and dazzling art installations. This was officially the herald of the first transformational festival in Subsaharan Africa … well apart from the 'Afrika Burn' Fest in South Africa.

I had been waiting for this moment since I read up on the plans of the move of Kilifi New Years Festival to the new 20-acre site on the upper reaches of Takaungu Creek on the Indian Ocean. I had been to Kilifi just once before when I needed an escape from the Nairobi June -July winter. I was also going thru' an existential crisis and my life was in a desperate need of a reboot.

Beyond the stunning visual beauty of its coastal line - the white powdery beaches, emerald creeks and warm turquoise waters, there is a mood here that settles and centers one.  A sacred presence that speaks peace and healing to ones being. It was hard leaving this space. I could hardly wait to return. Kilifi New Years Festival provided the perfect opportunity. No better place to end the old year and usher in new times.

In recent years Kilifi has become a magnet for hippies, wanderers, artists, and pacifists. Eco-conscious dreamers of a radical alternative to the soul deadening, industrial capitalist-driven existence. Having relocated from Bay Area, California, the epicenter of the 'Peace and Love' counterculture revolution of the sixties. I was addicted to the ideals of a progressive and open society that espoused humanity as the ultimate value. I felt a sense of home coming as I got acquainted with the Kilifi multicultural community.

The ancient dhow that greets one at the festival entrance has a huge single white sail with a mast that pins the silky azure skies in its place. On this windblown canvas is a huge painting of an elephant with butterfly wings for ears. The elephant happens to be my totem. The butterfly, a symbol of personal transformation. This is a sign to me. I am meant to be here and I am going to have one helluva time! 

At the ticketing line, 2 prancing faeries with a portable boom box surprise us with magic dust - read glitter. They grant us a wish, "request a song you desire and it shall be streamed to you", courtesy of 'Spotify' of course.  I take in their garb - tutus and all, their deliriously happy glammed up faces and over the top gestures. A strange disconnect with reality happens. the eagles 'Hotel California' is playing in my mind.  I voice it out "Welcome to the Hotel California, Such a lovely place, Such a lovely face." Spotify me that pixies.

Tickets on the wrist, we walk thru' a bamboo tunnel and comes across a huge tapped cask filled with Baobab juice. Thirsty and anticipating vigorous activity, I fill my bottle to the brim and greedily chug down the foaming tangy beverage. I burp long and light up a mustache spumed grin, "bring it on mofos"!

The tunnel opens up to a sandy wellness boulevard featuring exotic therapeutic installations on both sides. Artsy signage reads - Art therapy, massage, energy healing, yoga, sex therapy. The eco built pop up spaces blend seamlessly with the environment and one can observe participants absorbed in different postures of creativity and play.

The zen-like mood of the thoroughfare gives one pause. If it wasn't for the foliage muffled echo of electronica, one would not imagine that just yonder is an epic bacchanal bash unfolding. Where hippies, ravers, dub heads and stoners cavort in hedonistic abandon.
it is at the cool end of the day when we hit the main grounds. The saffron sun haunches low on the horizon streaking rays thru' the foliaged, spinning ethereal twilight. And like a time-lapse flower garden, the spaces unfold coming to full bloom at moonrise. Because here lighting and colors are the primary elements of the art that dances off the canvas of night and skin.

We are submerged in a future mythic world that is a blending of organic nature, art, and digital technology. In this magical playground inhibitions fall off and the child is let loose. It is all smiles, hugs and spontaneous jigs with strangers.

***** originally published 2nd February 2019